Olé to Jennifer McGruther’s Yucatan Lime Soup

Saveur magazine says we can find "the soul of Mexico in the soups of the streets and the markets."  In San Miguel de Allende last fall, I savored the "soul food" of earthy chiles, slow-braised meats and plenty of "offal" tripe. This year I look forward to indulging in all possible variations on … [Read more...]

Old Stewing Hens: Jennifer McGruther’s “Souper Secret”

When it comes to brothmaking, not all chickens are alike. Julia Child made that clear back in 1962 when she introduced the "Chicken Sisters" Miss Broiler, Miss Fryer, Miss Roaster, Miss Caponette (a rooster who had either gone "on the pill" or under the knife), Miss Stewer and Old Madam Hen.   She … [Read more...]